Origins of Holywood Village

'Druidville'

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Nineteenth century records indicate that the population centre then called 'Holywood Village' was a triangular collection of houses beside the turnpike road -- not the present 'Holywood Village', but a site originally named 'Druidville'.

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c March 1790: The Old Statistical Account states that the minister of Holywood, Bryce Johnston, oversaw the creation of a village which he dubbed Druidville to commemorate its 'small distance from the site of the Druidical temple' (i.e. stone circle). It consisted initially of 9 houses let to various tradesmen. The village was on the west side of the 'great turnpike road' (the present A76) then being built.

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1791: Turnpike road constructed, with toll at Newbridge.

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c1800: According to 19th century Seisins (Sasine, or property transfer) records, the non-farming population focus for the parish was this 'village of Druidville'. Extracts from the Sasine register describe its location and size:

#2322 Jun 16 1806: "...triangular piece of land out of the west end of lands of Crossleys on west side of the turnpike road upon which has been erected the village of DRUIDVILLE..."

#3946 1819 included a Smithy, and dwellings housed a shoemaker and itinerant draper.

#577 May 8 1877: "...east of the turnpike road, in the village of Druidville, commonly called Holywood village..."

#1299 Nov 21 1878: "...some houses in the village on the west side of the public road from Dumfries to Glasgow..."

#1424 Mar 27 1889: "north end of Holywood village called DRUIDVILLE, part of the village of Druidville with dwelling houses bounded on the north-east by the public road, with right to a common Bleach Green and to a Cart Road..."

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There are references to Druidville (or 'Druidsville', 'Druids Vale' or 'Holywood village') in the 19th century gravestones at the Holywood cemetery, along with farm and cottage names.

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The location is recorded on the first Ordnance Survey map as Druidsville. The triangle of land, with some dozen small plots of land, is on the western side of the Glasgow road opposite the later 'Holywood Station' road. It was the original site of the Post Office and shop (subsequently moved to the Glebe scheme in the mid-twentieth century, and closed in the early twenty-first century), and is now the site of a commercial garage.

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A small cluster of houses immediately north on the opposite (east) side of the turnpike road gained the name Druid Park (mentioned in the 1851 census and still on the OS map today). Just south of it, and built about the same time was the cluster called Newington Village.

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Other population centres noted on the 1851 census included East Cluden, on the north bank of the Cluden river and west of the turnpike road (now A76).

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Poplar Cottage and the rise of 'new' Holywood village

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Poplar Cottage was one of the few non-farming dwellings built near the church. Its history illuminates the growth of the present population centre.

 

1773: Manse built (located between Poplar Cottage and what was left of Holywood Abbey).

 

​1779: Present church built from the remaining stonework of Holywood Abbey.  The Abbey's choir portion had served as the parish church between the Reformation and its dismantlement in 1778.

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1782: School houses built (location uncertain).

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1788: Possible construction of Poplar Cottage:

"...the year 1788; at that time, an uncommon spirit for building appearing in the country, increased the demand for labour of that kind. This spirit proceeded from the general taste for good houses, which marks this period, and from many monied men, who, having purchased estates in this part of the country, are building elegant mansion-houses for themselves, and good farm-houses for their tenants." The author also records "Within the last ten years, five sets of farm houses, including dwelling-house and offices, have been built; some others have been rebuilt, and none have fallen into a state of ruin". [1791 Statistical Account for Holywood]

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Stones from the Abbey were also used to build the Kilncroft Farm outbuildings, the new church, probably the churchyard walls (in late 19th century), the present Abbey Farm outbuildings (also late 19C), and possibly Poplar cottage (late 18th century). The plot of land of Poplar Cottage, like Kilncroft farm, was part of the Dalawoodie Estate. These buildings all used cut and dressed sandstone blocks about 8 to 9" square or oblong up to a foot or more in length, often with short diagonal cuts on the faces [Dr J. W. Martin, 'Ruins and Stones of Holywood Abbey', Trans. D&G Antiquarian Society 12 Mar 1897]. Poplar Cottage walls were built from whinstone with dressed sandstone (ashlar) facing along window and door edges and entire front (south and east) walls.

 

1807: William Elton, baker, born 1781) marries Susannah Forsyth (1782-1814), probably living in Poplar Cottage.

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1808: Edward Elton, son, born there.

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1810: William and Susannah have twin girls Elizabeth and Jean; Susannah dies there five months later. Jean died 1811 and Elizabeth in 1815.

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1819: William marries second wife Ann Clugston (1781-1856) and they continue living at Poplar Cottage.

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1824: Herriet Forsyth Elton (their daughter) born.

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1825: Owner William Elton dies.  Dumfries Weekly Journal (6 Dec 1825):

"SLOOP FOR SALE,

AND

COTTAGE TO BE LET.

To be sold by public roup, within Nairn's Coffee room, Dumfries, on Wednesday, the 21st day of December, 1825, at 2 o'clock afternoon, if not previously disposed of by private bargain.

ONE-FIFTH share of the sloop HENRIETTA of the port of Dumfries, with her float boat, &c. that belonged to the late Mr William Elton of Newtonfoot. And to be let by private bargain, that neat Dwelling, called POPLAR COTTAGE, with small Garden and Shrubbery, lately possessed by Mr Elton, and now by his widow, living in the parish of Holywood, betwixt the high road and the church. It contains four fire rooms, with two garret rooms also with fire places, kitchen, coal cellar, &c. Entry at Whitsunday first. Apply to Messrs. Ferguson, Killylang; Bannay, Dalawiddie; or Montgomery, draper, Dumfries, or to R. Adamson, writer in Dumfries.

 

1826: Owners Mr and Mrs Elton. Dumfries Weekly Journal (28 Feb 1826):

"COTTAGE TO BE LET.

To be let by Private bargain,

That neat Dwelling, called POPLAR COTTAGE. . ."

1830 Dumfries Courier (12 Jan 1830):

"Poplar Cottage, in the parish of Holywood, with Garden, &c., as presently possessed by Lieut. Thomson. The Cottage is three miles from Dumfries, on the Thornhill road, and contains four Fire rooms, with Kitchen, Attics, &c. Apply to Mr George Montgomery, draper, Dumfries; or Mr Elton, at Clouden, the Proprietor."

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c1840: Dalawoodie House built about a quarter-mile south of Poplar Cottage.

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1840: Herries Forsyth (1774-1840) died at Poplar Cottage.

[headstone in Holywood Church cemetery, which states: Janet Stott died in 1712. Also Jean Elton, her daughter and spouse to the deceased Edward Elton in Killincroft, who died 12 Dec 1792 aged 80. Also Elisabeth Elton their daughter who died March 1819 aged 66 years. And also of Herries Forsyth, who died at Poplar Cottage on the 14th July 1840 aged 64 years". Nearby tombstone lists Ann Clugston, wife of the late William Elton, Baker in Dumfries, who died 27 Jan 1856 aged 77].

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1849: Officers of the Royal Engineers, responsible for mapping Dumfriesshire for the first Ordnance Survey of Scotland, recorded place-names and descriptions of individual cottages. Ordnance Survey Name Book describes Poplar Cottage as 'A neat cottage, the property of Thomas Simpson Esq., occupied by Robert Carson' [Dumfriesshire volume 25 OS1/10/25/79].  First Ordnance Survey of area shows the property as lot 849 on the south edge of the church Glebe. It notes the 'Holywood T.P.' (toll point or turnpike) just to the west, and church to the east. It noted also that the north boundary of the plot was along the edge of the Glebe land owned by the church, and along a straight line to the road to the church itself. Why did the road change direction at the cottage?

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1849 OS map, First Edition 6 inches per mile.

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1856: Ann Clugston (2nd wife of William Elton) dies.

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1861: Tenant William Strachan (53 yr old labourer, born Balmagha), his sister Jean Strachan (63 yr old housekeeper) and his son William Strachan (18 yr old fiscal clerk, born Kirkpatrick Durham). The house had "5 rooms with at least one window" (was one room windowless, or garret counted as a single room?)

[1861 census return for Holywood].

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1863-4: Poplar Cottage and land owned by Mrs Harriet Simpson (along with Manor-house, grounds and farm of Dalawoodie, which are south of it). Tenant/occupier was Mr Strachan.

[Valuation Roll for Parish of Holywood, entry 112]

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1870: Tenants Mrs Beattie and her brother John Brown. Dumfries & Galloway Standard 15 Jan 1870:

"Scotch Bankrupts. Sequestration. John Brown, sheep and cattle dealer, residing at Poplar Cottage, in the parish of Holywood, and county of Dumfries. Creditors meet in the Commercial Hotel, Dumfries, on Tuesday, Jan. 18, at 2 o'clock. Wm. Milligan, agent. -- Wm. Macpherson, merchant and auctioneer, in Coupar-Angus. -- George Carrick, builder, and wine and spirit merchant in Glasgow. -- John Brodie, watchmaker, Forres. -- The deceased Murdo Macrae, sheep farmer and meat dealer, lately residing at Badachroe, in the parish of Gairloch, and County of Ross." Long article in 5 Feb 1870 D&G Standard reporting on Brown's interrogation at the Examination stated "I bought some furniture belonging to my sister, Mrs Beattie, last year. The furniture was in the house in which we both lived, and which house was rented by her. She left that house some months ago, but I continue to occupy a part of it."

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1873: Robert Louis Stevenson passed by: [From Irongray] "We then fetched a long compass round about through Holywood Kirk and Lincluden ruins to Dumfries".

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1874: Neighbouring house sold:

"...Dwelling House adjoining the Glebe of Holywood at the east corner of the Garden at the Road leading from the side Toll Bar to the Church of Holywood...". 

[Sasine register #1048 Jan 27 1874 26.79.]

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1881: Poplar Cottage occupied by tenant William Rogerson (55 yr old pensioner, born Southwick) and wife Agnes (47 yrs old pensioner's wife) and boarder Eliza Grant (single 28 yr old teacher born in Glenrinnes Ban).

[1881 census returns for Holywood]

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1889: Ownership transferred by Thomas Simpson, owner of Dalawoodie, to his nephew, Richard Rimmer.

[Sasine register #2017 19 Mar 1890 144. 150.]

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c1890?: Cottage converted back to single dwelling. Possible external stairway on rear north side replaced by internal stone stairway. One window widened on north side. c 1896-1914. Occupied by William and Sarah Smith and their son and two daughters.

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c1900: 'School Road' (past Poplar Cottage) was the main road to Holywood Station; the more direct road from the Glasgow-Dumfries road was constructed in 1930, having been only a track until then. [Account of Mr Hastings, Kilncroft farm].

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1900: D&G Standard 22 Aug 1900: Funeral of William Rogerson of Poplar Cottage Thurs. 23 Aug 1900 at Caerlaverock Churchyard.

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1905: Cairn Valley Railway line, running east-west, built some 300 m north of Poplar cottage.

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1905: Miss Margaret Harriette Rimmer inherits on Richard Rimmer's death. The Poplar Cottage land was a small part of the entire "Dalawaddie or Dallawoodie" estate which she inherited, and which included

"the fishing of the water of Clouden, adjacent and pertaining thereto, and the 16s. land of Boigside and sheep hills, in Parish of Holywood, and Teinds; the lands called Kilncroft [the farm buildings up the road toward the church, and the farm between Holywood village and Dalawoodie House], Corson Croft and Crossflat, in Parish and Barony of Holywood; the lands of Maxwellton and Newtonfoot [north of the village], containing 29 Scotch acres, in Parish of Holywood, which lands of Maxwellton are described as the half Merk land of Maxwellton, in Parish of Holywood, Barony thereof, and which lands of Newtonfoot are described as the 10s. land of Newtonfoot, in Parish foresaid; also the half Merk land of Muircroft, in Parish of Holywood, -- under exception of (1) 1517 square Yards of ground acquired by the School Board of the Parish of Holywood, and (2) Pieces of land extending to 3-64/1000 Acres acquired by the Glasgow and South Western Railway Company..."

[Sasine register #170 May 5, 1906. Lib. 276. 140.]​

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1915: The son of William Smith, Walter Smith, King's Own Scottish Borderers, of Poplar Cottage, died in the Great War.

Name on First World War memorial, Holywood Parish church to those who "made the supreme sacrafice" [sic]: "Smith, Walter, K.O.S.B. Poplar Cottage." 24 other Holywood men are listed on the memorial immediately south-west of the church.

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1922: Cottage sold by Margaret Rimmer to tenant William Smith Jr (coal merchant) for

        £300. Smith's wife, Sarah, died there in May aged 60. 

[Sasine register #595 Sept 21, 1922. Lib. 429.84, reads

"...-- of triangular plot of ground, with Cottage, &c. known as POPLAR COTTAGE thereon, bounded on the south or south-east by the road leading past the Manse to Holywood church, and on the west or north-west by the road to Holywood station, being enclosure no. 849 on the Ordnance Survey sheet, and being part of the estate of DALAWOODIE, described in Not. Instrument in favour of said Granter, recorded in this register 5th May 1906, with right to draw water from the well in the field no 832 on said survey sheet ..."]

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1935: William Smith died there 31st Jan 1935 aged 78 (1862-1935).

Tombstone west of the church reads:

"In Loving Memory of Halliday, Son of William and Sarah Smith, who died at Mid-Crossleys, 18th April 1895, aged 1 year. Also Walter Halliday, their son, killed in action in France, 25th September 1915, aged 25 years [1890-1915]. Also Sarah Halliday, wife of William Smith, who died at Poplar Cottage, 5th May 1922, aged 60 years. Also William Smith, who died at Poplar Cottage, 31st January 1935. Also Elizabeth Hannah, their daughter, who died 19th Nov. 1952 aged 58 years [1894-1952], Also Sarah Jane, their daughter, who died 8th March 1954 aged 54 years" [1900-1954]

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1948-60s: 'Glebe scheme' of postwar housing constructed in stages, using Glebe land ceded by the Church of Scotland and forming the centre of what was to become Holywood village.

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1954: Poplar Cottage, now at the south edge of the new Holywood village, was sold by the surviving Smith sister, daughter of William Smith, to Thomas and Margaret Carroll. [Sasine register #833 Jul 1 1954 736. 153.]

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1967: new Holywood primary school opened just north of Poplar Cottage.

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1999: Sold by Carrolls to the Johnstons.

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